Lace



NOV. 22, H BEUN, 3

LACE

Filed Feb. 6, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet l 10 10c I B;

ATTORNEY LACE Filed Feb. 6, 1952 4 sheets-Sheet 2 10b 1001 Q l 2 7 INVENEQR I ATTO RN EY Nov. 22, 1932. H. BELIN, 30 1,888,650

LAC E Filed Feb. 6, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVEN QR W ATTORNEY Nov. 22, 1932. H. BELIN, 3D 1,888,650

LACE

Fil d Feb- 6, 1 2 4Sheets-Sheet 4 FIGA. 8

BY I @{Adp b M ATTORNEY Patented Nov. 22, 1932 I ED STATES HENRY BELIN, '31), or scR'ANroN, PENNSYLVANIA, .essienoa o rim sonAurou men l .COMPANY, or sonnnronirnnusytvlmm, in conformation or 1 =EN 1ts'Y -I.y NIA'- Application filed February 6, 193a. sefiai iio, 591,329. 1-

This invention relates to laces and particularlyto machine made laces which ha've, colored patterns or spots differing incolor from the color of the back-ground or foundation of thelace. o

Among the objects of my invention is to produce lace having the appearance ofuni formity in weight throughout its back ground, even though the lace has patternspots of colored threads Which do not extend any substantial degree beyond the pattern spots and into the back-ground of the lace. Another object of the invention is to provide novel methods of making lace and laces which are: durable and "attractive notwithstanding'thata portion ofthe spool threads which are used in their manufacture are subsequently clipped and removed from between 1 pattern spots. ,He'retofore laces'containing Y threads of different-lcolors have been made by various methods, most of which entailmuc'h expense orare productive of a lace lacking'in quality and saleability. Colored lace maybe l made by the commonmethods of making lace 1 on Nottingham lace 'curtainjmachin'es, but the principal objection to such'l'ace lies 'inthe' fact that the colored spool threads which produce the colored pattern-spots impart to the background or foundationof thelace a col.- ored'striped appearance caused by the pillaredo spool threads" between successive pattern spots." This objectionable feature has been overcome-by causing the spool thread to be floated from one pattern spot toanother,

thereby leaving loosely] hanging lengths of colored thread intermediate successive pat-- ternspots'which mayjbe readily clipped and removed fromthe lace, However, this, removal of the objection to a coloredstripe appearance. is not altogether satisfactory he l, cause in place of the stripe possessing acol-- ored cast there results Ia stripe caused fromthe lackof balanceor uniformity in the apparentweight of the back-ground or foundarnlicaion 9 my-ima wer :he

tioniof the lace. This is due to thetactthat.

- threadsvlar'e removed, 1suchas occurs: whenebb spool threads are floated and clipped, there results alightnessin weight of the lace in the 7 areas or spots, wherein the spool threads {l would have been {Woven theyhad 'not been 1 lace structure between the longitudinal-strips containingfthe pattern-,spot s, thegfspool threads are pillared to the warpgthre'ads and stantiallyun'iform in w'eight throughdutfl its 5 surface The manner bylvvhichl l1'ai 7e av(: -;v

complished this warts apparentj'from the, following :description and drawings; in

Fig; l e-is a dia,g'r arnrnat'iql'fipresentation fa fabric made in accordance Withjthe'method ofjmy'inventionL y o Fig, 2 is a pattern draft for the fabric illustrated in Fi 31'.;;1,,; v 5Q i is P e d a t h w ng' th en: 1'

Fig. 4 is another patternfdraft'simllarvt0;

other feature ofmy invention... a H

While "it Will. be apparentlhereina v N the method of the presentIinventionsmayfbe',

that illustrated, in Fig;*3,?butfshowingfan rea e r ifi e man eie i Tot me s; W I

' laces, including laces requiring, an extra bar for their manufacture, such as filet madras, straight madras, dubonnet, bar-ground and cross ground, for the purpose of simplifying this di sclosure,I have chosen to illustrate its application to a simple form of filet lace of which a diagrammatic showing is reproduced in Fig. 1. In general, lace which is made on Nottingham lace curta n machlnes is made up of a plurality of warp threads which forni the backbone of the lace, and

three other 'threads the spool, the beam and the bobbin. The spool thread throws in the v pattern and'is pillared upon the warp threadbetween ,pattern spots; The beam thread,

makes the back-ground and the bobbin thread twists around the spool and 'beam.

threads and ties them to the warp, threads.

- In a simple form of filet lace having" no pattern spots, the lacehas the appearance of net with? square meshes and in sucha lace is thefspo'ol threads are everywhere pillared to the warp threads. The appearance of plain netof this c'haraeter is uniform throughout.- 7 When a pattern is to bel'made on filet' lace,

theijacquard 'cards arepunchedin such a manner as to causethe'spool threads to be,

threwn to. make patterned, spo-ts'o'r pillared to the warp th're'adstoproducethe pattern 151; which- {the jacquard cards have been Wind d! I Y Having, reference to Fig. 1 111' which I have shown. a diagrammatic, reproduction V, of a'filet lacemade in accordance with my in- ,jnjmjpa ianei 101116 warp threads and trans "verse thereto alternately" are the" beam, ,threads 13, and the threads'which twist about e an ventien', 1O designates the area infthe back groundin which the spool'thread's are pil-f aware the warp. threads. These areas run" in lon itudinal strips between. 100 and 10b and betweenjlOe 'and 10d. The warp threads, 7 *11T'run vertically or longitudinally of the fabric. The spool threadslQ within the 19 g 11 v the, warp threads 11 The threads which the warp threadsand tie in the remaining threads are the bobbin threads 14. ,The

refer to the back-grounder foundation as 1 being that portion of thel'ace whichiisex v elusive of i the thread which forms the-pattern Spats composing'the figures 15 and 16.

} speol'threads which form the pattern spots "-"c'emposing the decorative figures or objects,

are identified as 15. The warp, beam and a bebbin threads perform. the 'sa'me function throughout'the entire area ofthe portion of' the lace illustrated. For convenience Ish'all While my inventionhas its greatest appliucationftolaces whichthe'colorsof the figures-eoatrasewith or differ fromfthe color 1 of the back-groundl wish it to be understood thatfits various features are useful irres ee,

tiveef'theipresence "of color or of. the manner 1 in which co-lo'redthre'ads are used. For the diii'al stripsjlO are pillared or tied to purpose of the present disclosure, it'will' suffice, however, to describe the invention by V reference to the use of a single color for producing pattern'spots vand a solid colorback-ground, for example, pattern spots produced by green threads on a white background. Since the back-ground of this particular lace is to'be made in'solid color, all

of the four threads which'are used for producing the back-groundare of one color, in the present, instance; white, "The figures which are to be greenpare produced by a green spool thread, but the remaining three threads which are'present in the longitudinals p -n he ifig-ure are of th Same color as the background of the. lace, in' the present example, white; In producing the lace illustrated in Fig. 1, the spool threads 12 between 10a and 10b and between 100 and 10;; are white,and the spool threads 15 betweenlObfland lO-cfare green; As is well understood, the green spool threads 15er floated between detached figures, and as may f be seen from Fig; lthe're are no spool threads illustrated between the successive detached gures'16,17.

fThe patterned spots which'p'ompose a fig; ur'e may consist of a single square 18 -or number of contiguous squares 19 which are: produced by throwing thespool thread. As is well known in the art, this operation is controlled by the. guide' bars under the 'con 1 trol of jacquardcards; If the green spool threads had not beenflo'atedbetween succes' sive figures 1'6, 17, thel lace would 'havef 'a green cast because of the pillaring'of the green threads between the two figures. How, ever, "the lfloating and clipping of spool threads between successive figures results in astrip containing the :pattern "spots which has the appearance ofybeing'flig'hter in weight than the adjacent longitudinal strips or; areaslO which donot contain figures com-1 v posed of pattern spots; In addition to being of light weightfthe-areas between successive figures would be of less {strength than the" fabric 'injthe adjacent lon gitudinal strips 10 in which none eft e threads .u sed in' making,

the lace has beenreinoved, "Inorder to; overcome these disadvantages I have pro-,

duced the lace of my presentinvention by background.

As may be seen" in lTig: '1 j the relative weights of the w arpthreads are indicated by the difference inthe weight of the linesrep i resenting the threads, Because of thedi'fl er' fill in the pattern spots.

fabricated: Itistherefore necessary to equip-1 thelace-making niachine in such a manner as to enable the-mounting of separate-spools carrying warp threads, and for this purpose I. have found it convenient to equip the-inachine with alarge spool and for practical purposes prefer this arrangement. Spools are placeduon the board containing warp threads and this arrangement permits the use of warp threads of any size desired becausetof the independent rela-. tion of the spools carrying warp threads of different weights With such anarrangement, lace may be obtained which is absolutely even and clear.

In Fig. 2 I have illustrated a pattern draft from which the acquard cards for producing the fabric illustrated infFig. l'may'be punchedf In this figure conventional coloring has been used to imitate the appearance of an actual pattern draft. It is the usual practice to paint the draft with colors for indicating the manner in which the jacquard cards should bepunched to producea certain attern. For example, the areas within which all spool threads are floated are painted in one color, say green, all colored pattern spots within a figure are painted in another color, say blue, all pillared colored threads are painted in another color, say orange, all white pattern spots within a figure are painted inanother color, say red,

and for all pillared white threads the paper is left white. To punch thepattern on jacquardcards, card No. 1 is punched to put in the pattern parts, that is, those parts painted blue and those parts painted red. Card No. 2 is punched to put on the pattern parts, that is, those parts painted'blue and those parts painted red; the pillared threads or those parts which have not been painted and are white; and the pillared colored threads, or those parts painted orangen The jacquard cards are then used on the lace machine in conjunction with the guide bars and in a way that is well-known bythose familiar with the operation of lace-making machines- Having reference to Fig. 2, and having in mind the color code set forth'hereinabove, one may readily understand how the lace illustrated in Fig. 1 maybe produced. Within the areas shown as blue, such as 116 and 117, the colored spool threads are thrown to "Withinthe area conventionally shown as green,- the spool threadsare floated. Theorange coloring in dicates parts such as at 120, wherein the colored spool threads are pillared'. In the fabrica hole, such as is produced by pillaringthe colored spool thread between pattern spots with the result bedrawnas the lace is.

board at the back,

in a strai shown at 20, Fig. 1,-

that the colored spoolfthr'ead does. not show between adjacent. pattern spots, aswould' be the case if the spool. threads were floated- By pillaring thecolored spool-threads bee in tween pattern spots such as 118 and 119 and V I where shown in orange in Fig. 2, it is possible. to produce a better-appearing and betterwearing? fabric than would bethe case if the colored spool threads were floated between all pattern Jspots. my invention may be appreciated when 1151s applied to a more complex'figure. in the fabric,

and I therefore illustrate in Fig. 3;:apattern draft containing detached figures in which] there are several areasof contiguous meshes between pattern spots.

The value. ofthis feature of Such areas areindicated at21, 22, 23 and 24., The colored spool thread passingthroughl a colored areaor along itsedgcsfispillared toa warp thread,

with the result thatopen meshes remain.

Insome cases there .is no objection to; the use of. figures in lace in which theicolored: spool threads have been pilla'red ust beyond the figures, a nd in order to takeadvantage of the strength-giving quality I resulting. from pillaring thespool threads and also; to facili 's tate clipping floated. spoolthreads, I propose thepillaring of all: spool vthreads loeyond each 7 I figure andv for "distances to .finish .pillaring ht line. I, have represented thisin i- Fig. l which shows: apattern draft of a pat -l tern similar to thatillustrated inFig. 3,buti' in which the areaslbetween; lines- AA.i and B.-B, exclusive of the figures, are markedifor the pillaring of thespool threads. Thatis to say, the .spoolthreads which are thrown into the patterns are conventionally indicated in blueand the colored spoolthreads which are pillared are conventionally indicated in orange. Another advantage of making a lace according to this method resides in thefacility by which'thefioated spool threads between .1 i i figures may be clipped. As maybereadily appreciatech all of', the threads within lines B+B- may be clipped in: one

A-A and.

are patterned. with acolored thread, theob-v jection is less in the vicinity ofthe'figurebut this method 5 V of makingfabric may .have greaterrse in straight cutting. operation. Sincethe figures serious to having a colored-cast l such instances wherethe top sideof thefabric.

may beturned under,jas for example-,fora

table 'cloth. Whenthe top side is threads isnot in View. p v In the foregoing Ihave endeavored to. prop turned 1 under the colored-cast produced-by the colored 'vide a full. disclosure ofpreferred forms of my invention, and forthis purposeI have shown by way of example the application of;

to filet lace, but it is ap its various features parent that the principle involved may beap+ plied. in the-production ofany lace-whose I If manufactureutilizes aneXtra bar, and also to 7 Swiss or combination orlswissand combina tienflee e. heref re it i beu drs pd ate ' ineightaccountable by thegabsence of a spool threads between figuresis substantially Si: V

1 tha't it is not intendedito confinetlierinvention tothe embodiments herein disclosed; and that it is-susceptible' ofembodiment in avarious forms and combinations, :all cominglgwithin o .;;-.the;scope ofatheclaiinswhichzfollow. T l claiinz i 7' 11. its :a new' article 4 of vmanufacture, :lace made on a Nottingham :lace curtain loom,

I saidilace havingqfigures composing pattern spots-nude from: thetthreadfof :a icolori differ'e'nt froni that: of the bacl:.-gr0i111d 1 of the lace, :said -patternspots being formed by throwing-colored spool thread-and said figures being separated longitudinally: of the Warp threads by the absence of colored spool 1 threads, and 'warpithrea'ds in the longi.-' tudinal strips containing gfigu'res WlliCll are heavier than 1 the Warp threads in' the longitudinal strips net containing figures. I 7 5 7. 2.5 A substantially"uniform weight lace madeon a Nottingham lace curtain loom;

said lace havi'n detached fi ures made of V L) 1 I colored --spool='threads Whichar'e-discontinuous betWeemfigures in -the, same longitudinal 5 strip and=in=which the Warp-threadsof the V lace are heavier in the longitudinal-strips containing" the colored figures than elsewhere in thev jlace' to ofi set' the-Weight 1 lost because 3. A substantially niform eight lace made one -Nottingham lace i curtain loom, said l'a-ce having detached figures composed of pattern spots thrown in" by spool; threads Which are discontinuous between =figures in the sa nelongitudinal strip and in which the Warp threads of'the lace are heavier in threads arediscontinuous' whereby the loss compensated. L

Y 4. As a new article of manufacture; lace made-0115a Nottingham lace curtain loom,

o'f'theabsenceof spoolthreads betweenadjaf i cent 'jfig'ures .inthe longitudinalstrips con tainingthefigures. r

the longitudinal strips in Which: the spool 'iasesmao threads d ftdifierent Weights :foiicompensatiI1g1fQ1ath6tltiGl? of colored spoolathreakilslbee V p tween successive,patternobjects whereby the backgroundof theilacei-s made uniformathe Warp threads :inathe longitudinal strips con:

taining the zcolored'fpattern objects being heavierithamthose'inithe:longitudinalistrips notcontaining-coloredpatternobjects. 7

lnztestimony =.Whereof ;I 7 hereto :ratfix signature. v

' HENRY;:BELIN,.1III.

said lace having detached figures containing a V figures, said-lace having the appearance of balance notwithstanding the; absence ofspool threads between adjacent figures, and; Where-' inthe-appearance:of'balance is obtained by Warpthreads in'gthelongitudinalstripscon taini ngthe-figures heavier than the Warp spool threads are continuous.

. V '5. a new article of manufacture, lace made on-afNottingham lace curtain machine, V

saidwla'ce having colored patterns, objects formed by colored spool threads" which have been'iremovedfrom the lac'e between successtrip-andarefpillared within the holes of; the

r pattern objects :and :adjoiningithe end ex treinities :of "the pattern objects, and Warp spoolthreads and'no spoolthreadsbetween figures in longitudinal strips containing the threads in longitudinal-stripsWherein'the f I v sive pattern objects in the same longitudinal 

